By Aiah P. Thomas
“Just Cam”, or “JC” for short, is the reference to Sierra Leoneans visiting from overseas. Many JC’s reportedly leave Sierra Leone (SL) with a wide range of views about their experience during their visits. One in particular relates to my visit in June this year, after spending 12 years in Australia. I finally returned home to start life all over again, learning the somewhat new lifestyle of my country. Expectedly, I was thrilled to be back exactly where I belong. And it was very emotional for so many reasons, some of which are too personal to be shared in this article.
Upon my return to Australia, after six weeks back home, I thought of sharing some of my experience with other JC’s intending to visit Sierra Leone especially as Christmas approaches, to assist them with their preparations. And during my six-week visit, I managed to identify the good, the bad and the ugly experiences of a JC as highlighted below.
The Pros:
I had a few wonderful experiences during my visit and they ranged widely. It includes even if not limited to the following:
Unconditional love: As a JC, expect to be showered with love from family, friends and even strangers. Sierra Leone, as always, has never changed even after the 10 years of senseless war which claimed the lives of tens of thousands of innocent souls. Yet people still have the courage and strength to show unconditional love to their countrymen, and more so for foreigners who are received as kings and queens.
Visible developments: Expect to be shocked by visible infrastructural development in most parts of the country. Notably, the road network from Freetown to Kambia and Pamalap, Freetown to Bo & Kenema, Freetown to Makeni and Magburaka. The supply of electricity & water is erratic in most parts of the city, but the west end tends to have far more regularity than the east. Certainly the streets aren’t paved with gold, but semi-functional street lights can be located in the western parts of Freetown, Bo, Kenema and Magburaka.
Personal Development: Often people tend to remember general developmental levels observed during their last visit to Sierra Leone, as in the case of JC’s, which can be deceptive. The people are developing vastly regardless of grinding hardships. I saw so many citizens who’ve acquired higher education, work in high level positions, own houses, cars and businesses all over the country. Therefore, the common assumption that JC’s are better educated than our fellow countrymen or live a far much better lifestyle than those back home is fallacious.
JC’s are also traditionally known to wear the best and most expensive designer clothes, drive in the best cars, and live a lavish life. Material things as always are measuring frames for social status. Therefore for those wanting to show off it is recommended that you purchase all your designer wears in Sierra Leone. Buy your best SUV’s there as well. For designer clothes, cars, SUV’s are much cheaper in Sierra Leone than in the Diaspora. So hold your horses until you arrive there.
Timeframe: Time flies very fast in Sierra Leone – well in my case it did – so allocate sufficient time to ensure the completion of your mission; otherwise you might end up regretting the decision to visit briefly. There is so much you can do in Sierra Leone, starting off with the beautiful beaches, first class night clubs in and out of the city, a smooth drive in the countryside, the food and culture, rich histories offering so much learning opportunities for all.
The Cons
Transportation: Based on my experience, I will strongly advice against visiting Sierra Leone if you are not automobile. Without a personal reliable vehicle, it is a nightmare to navigate any part of Sierra Leone. I will recommend that those intending to visit without a vehicle should postpone their visit until such time when they are sure of a readily available vehicle in-country, otherwise brace up for the following: fist-fighting/competing with domestic passengers to access public transport, waiting considerably longer hours to secure public transport, often sharing ride with unhygienic passengers with strong body odour and total lack of personal space, changing ride two or three times to get into and out of the city, etc. The cost of hiring a vehicle ranges from $100 to $200 (US) per day, pending intended usage of the vehicle in/out of the city.
Accommodation: For those who’ve got houses or have family members willing to provide you suitable accommodation, you may like to consider other associated responsibilities such as daily feeding for the entire household, which in turn is either equivalent to the cost of staying in a hotel or much more. The costs of hotels in Freetown are more expensive than 3 start hotels in the US, Australia, New Zealand and the entire Southeast Asia. Hotel prices range from US $70 to $250 per night. However the cost of a guest house ranges from $30 to $60 per night, which by any measure is reasonable.
Reliability: If you’re on a business adventure in Sierra Leone, trust no one with your goods and money, for you will likely be deceived. Even some of those who are struggling tend to seek no more than their personal interests. So be careful otherwise your business might end up in tartars.
Police: The saddest of my experience was my many encounters with the so-called law enforcement officers who are everywhere in and outside the city. Permit me to share a personal story. My trusted cousin and I were driving to the quay amid a gridlock of traffic at East End Police Clock Tower, when we were pulled over by a traffic police officer for failing to install a wiper blade at the back of a German engineered Opel. I asked the officer “if the German manufacturer did not install a wiper blade on the vehicle, is it the driver’s responsibility to install?” The officer replied: “man you are breaking the law and defiant at the same time. You need to show understanding, otherwise you aren’t going anywhere”. That “understanding”, I was later made to understand, is a euphemism for a bribe.
Another one arrested me for driving on the wrong side of the road. At the time of my arrest there were at least five other vehicles both in front of and behind mine, also driving on the same side of the road. But none of those were even spoken to let alone arrested.
My worst experience was cemented by my unavoidable contacts with police officers demanding bribes with no sense of duty whatsoever. Then I asked myself a rhetorical question: why is the state employing so many mobsters only to squeeze the living breath out of the already struggling citizens. My heart goes out to all road users in Sierra Leone as they continue to deal with crocked cops on a daily basis.
Prostitution: The sickening ugliness of post-war impacts on a once shy & highly moral upright society that Sierra Leone was is ubiquitous. That once enviable situation has disappeared for so many reasons, the obvious being the high cost of living. The level of prostitution in Sierra Leone is beyond common understanding. Kids as young as 12 years of age can be easily sighted on the streets at night selling their bodies for as low as Le 30, 000 (US$ 7) or less. To make matters worse I observed that prostitution is somehow ignorantly condoned by many, as the elderly who are supposed to be stamping out such practices are themselves consumers. Pekito is a common slang used to describe under-aged girls who are actively engaged in sexual relationships with older men, often men in higher positions and better financial capabilities.
Witchcraft: A topic no realistic Sierra Leonean can deny, the rampant practice of witchcraft has led to the untimely death of many in Sierra Leone, especially those visiting from overseas who are often targeted by their family members and close friends. My cousin was so worried about my safety that one morning, just before heading out to the city, he advised me to keep a baby lime on me at all times to serve as a witch-gun-proof. My recommendation to visiting JC’s is, refrain from eating & drinking anywhere other than the hotel or some decent restaurants (many are around). Be prayerful at all times without ignorance, for God does not condone stupidity. So stay on the alert and make wise decisions.
Cash: The first step of your preparations should begin with a primary focus on sufficient pocket money, for it’s embarrassing to be out of cash in Sierra Leone as credit cards hardly work in the country. The bare minimum you can expect to spend is $60 per day. On average you may want to spare $100 to spend daily. For those travelling from Australia and Southeast Asia, I will recommend that you change your money into US dollars as it’s more valuable there than the Aussie dollar. Those from Europe & US, just take your cash on you. Upon your arrival, open a local bank account to keep your money.
Lastly, I don’t wish to portray my country in any image other than what I saw. So if readers disagree I hope they can appreciate that these comments are based on my personal observations and experience. Far from generalization of any kind. I hope this travel advice serves you well as you prepare to visit the beautiful country that Sierra Leone still is.
The author is a Sierra Leonean based in Queensland, Brisbane city, Australia. He is a founding member and current chairman of the Federation of Sierra Leonean Communities Council of Australia, a peak representative body for all state operated Sierra Leonean community groups throughout Australia. He holds a postgraduate degree in International Relations and has worked with the federal government of Australia, the United Nations, and spent 10 years settling vulnerable refugees in Australia; including Sierra Leoneans.
(C) Politico 19/11/13
